LAKE ELEMENTAITA – A Distant Cloud of Pink

We are walking across a dry lake bed to a cloud of shimmering pink shapes in the distance. The ground alternates between soft patches of mud, and crunchy areas of salt which have been left as the water has receded away. At certain points, this is a huge lake. In the dry season, though, the water recedes into the far distance. The shimmering pink cloud in the distance hovers over what’s left of the water. It’s a large flock of flamingoes, the last of the thousands which rest all over the lake in the wet season. Of course, it’s meant to be the wet season right now…


Sunlight breaking through above Elementaita


The dry lake bed of Elementaita

Elementaita is a soda lake situated to the north west of Nairobi; and driving here from the Massai Mara has taken us back over the escarpments of the Rift Valley. This time, though, it’s the greener farmland which represents a large part of Kenya’s agriculture. It’s also the hotbed of tribal tension which saw some of the worst violence after the 2007 elections. Perhaps there is still something of unease about the place; as small private farms struggle for position alongside large, new commercial operations which produce for Kenya’s export market.


Bungalows on the hillside above Lake Elementaita

A few hours of ascending and descending later, we reach our next overnight spot on the shores of Lake Elementaita. It’s an impressive sight from the highway. A vast lake bed surrounded by rugged hills. We’re staying in bungalows perched right over the lake’s eastern edge. In the last of the day’s light we take our first walk across the lake bed, but aren’t able to get as far as the flamingos just yet. The view at sunset is stunning; the heavy metal doors and large padlocks which make everything look a bit like jail cells, are a little disconcerting.


My bungalow at Elementaita. Complete with alarmingly heavy and solid metal door

The next day we return to the lake bed, this time heading for the southern edge. This time we manage to reach the flamingos which, even though are apparently far less in number than they should be, are still an impressive sight, standing still as they do without wavering in the water. Heading around the water, we reach the Kekopey hot springs. These springs seem to serve as the main bathing, washing and social spot for the local villagers. Basically, they’re like a community centre. Spending some time swimming here gives plenty of chances to speak to the locals about life, language and to explore conspiracy theories regarding the death of Michael Jackson. The hot springs are *very* hot, and leave a rather strange mineral residue which we can’t identify. (Further exploration of Wikipedia tells me that the local Massai believe these springs can cure AIDs…)


Flamingos standing on the lake shore.


The hot springs at Elementaita.

There is more time to share with the Kenyans in Elementaita in the afternoon when we head out to the home of George and Lucy, who run a small farm from their property. The youngest of their seven children, Virginia, shows us around the farm whilst wearing a Santa hat. As well as explaining the many fruits and vegetables crammed into the tiny garden, she tells us all about her school and her desire to become a doctor. We also meet her sister, Regina, who’s much quieter and their nephew, also called George, whose energy is boundless.


Sitting in the hot waters, and maybe feeling the beneficial health effects, of Elementaita.

After walking through the grounds (and after Ruth and I have taken turns bouncing Little George the whole way) we’re invited into the house to talk to George. It’s clear that he’s both used to meeting overseas visitors, and that he enjoys holding court. We tell him who we are and where we come from, allowing him to launch into a speech or story which may or may not be related. Renewable energy provides one sorts of interesting discussion, as does the politics of the Anglican Church of Canada (a somewhat inevitable debate in the highly evangelical churches of Kenya) Whilst all this is going on, Little George is busying himself trying to force feed Lois and Ruth tea and fruit; whilst stealing the pieces of fruit he wants from everybody else’s plates.


Looking across to the hills on the other side of Elementaita.

It transpires that George is enamored with both Scotland and Canada; and he produces a book of photographs from Canada which a previous guest sent to him. He’s very proud of it, and excited when I’m able to point out where I live on a photo of the snow capped North Vancouver mountains. He insists on me putting my contact details in the book; and I happily give him my number at the switchboard at the Diocese of New Westminster. Clearly the women of the house know to let George do his thing when he has visitors, and so when he takes a break we get a chance to speak to Regina and Virginia again. Regina is a physics fan; which according to Elijah means she has to make a choice between studying it or agriculture in the future. George clearly has a lot of traditional views; but it’s clear that the education of his family is important to him as well as his fascination with other cultures and those are the marks of Kenya’s growing aspiring middle classes.


Sunset over Lake Elementaita.

We head back to the bungalows for another stunning sunset, set against the ribbon of flamingos standing tall in the far distance…