MASSAI MARA - God Walking

Aside from some occasional howling (not from me, or from the Mark Kermode podcast I was listening to late at night) it’s an easy sleep in the Kenyan bush. We awake to one of Demetrius’ wonderful breakfasts, served under pink early morning skies. Jonathan has changed from traditional Massai kanga into civvies to join us for our day’s travelling. First we take a walk through the quiet morning bush. It’s clear from Jonathan and Elijah’s commentary that the aridness of the area has taken a huge toll in all the ecosystems here. Aside from a few occasional zebra and gazelle in the distance, we see few animals. There are herds of cows being driven by Massai, although Elijah tells us many of them have moved their grazing ground closer to the Massai Mara nature reserve and (at the dead of night when they won’t be spotted so easily) even inside its gates to the grasslands beyond, putting increased pressure on that area.


Dawn at the bush camp.


Elijah shows Jon and Ruth the remains of a skull.

We find evidence of where Massai have been using the area, and with CSI precision Jonathan is able to dissect the remains of an abandoned campsite to tell us how many Massai were there, how long they stayed and even what they ate for dinner and breakfast. (A skull fragment revealing the former, and various porridge stirring sticks in the nearby gorse bushes telling us the latter) All in all, the Kenyan bush is a vast, eerie place, especially in drought season, devoid of a lot of the familiar sights and sounds which would help orient a lost hiker. With the exception, of course, of Jonathan’s cell phone ringtone!


Jonathan guides us around the abandoned Massai campsite.

Rather impressively, as we reached the first dirt track our safari van trundled towards us. Obviously good tracking (or, now I think about it, the cell phones might have had something to do with it…) and soon we were on our way to the Massai Mara itself. Well, not inside the reserve just yet… Bizarrely, considering it’s one of the most travelled routes in the country, the main road heading south is in terrible shape. Elijah tells us it’s due to a dispute between the national and local government over who should foot the bill for the cost of the tarmac. It’s another interesting indicator of why Kenya’s desire to boost their tourist trade doesn’t always gel with what the local tribes want; to the ultimate detriment of, well, everyone.

We head to our next campsite literally a few minutes drive from the main gate in the foothills which mark the border to the Mara. The Mountain Rock camp is definitely a step up in terms of amenities from bush camping. The tents are permanent, and contain large beds of the solid variety, as well as various other pieces of furniture. Each one is on its own lot, with a garden out front… basically like an old colonial style camping experience, complete with English country gardens. The hot water showers built onto the back of each tent are something of a marvel of science, and very welcome.


Homes and gradens; tented camp style at the Mountain Rock camp.

With a couple of days of solid drive time ahead of us (the Massai Mara isn’t a place where walking safaris are done) we decided to use the remaining daylight hours to climb one of the local hills and get a better view of the Mara. With Jonathan having left us at a nearby village, we enlisted the services of a new Massai, Mataka, to accompany us. Mataka’s English is not very strong, but he does have a very shiny spear which he takes great delight in throwing ahead of him (he’s got a good arm for a man his age!) Ruth and Douglas are able to point out which of the nearby dung samples belong to elephants thanks to their experiences on Mt. Kenya (look for undigested plants and grass…) although that’s not an entirely comforting thought when you’re climbing a confined bit of slope with only Mataka’s throwing arm for protection.


Elijah and Mataka guding us safetly up.


Lois and Mataka conversing once we reach the top of the hill.

We reach the top without incident, although a careful check is made of one tree at the summit whose trunk has distinct leopard claw marks in it. By this point the sun is beginning to set behind low, darkened clouds. Much of southern Kenya is too dry but the Massai Mara’s ecosystem has remained more balanced; hence why it’s teeming with wildlife. Against the rainclouds, the sunbeams shine down distinctly across the plains. I forget who uses the phrase first, but it’s not long before each time we see this phenomena we’re referring to it as “God walking.” It’s a very appropriate term.


View over the Massai Mara from the hilltop.


God walking across the Mara.

Back at camp, we bump into a group of Canadians who are on a short safari following their attendance in Nairobi at a conference on agri-forestry. Not plain forestry: agri-forestry. After a few moments spent trying to figure out the odds of meeting a group of Canadians in Kenya who make a living dealing with trees (a national obsession, no matter what anyone tries to tell you otherwise) we end up talking about their afternoon’s game drive in the Massai Mara. Their tales of elephant herds and watching hyenas hunt are beguiling, as all safari stories are. And thoughts start to turn towards the wonders that may await us when we do the same thing tomorrow…


Hiking back down the hill!


Sunset over the hills of the Mara.