MUSSOOREI - The Top of the World

Obviously it was meant to be: that in the final few weeks of my travels I'd return to the enviroment which brings me the most happiness: tiny towns perched on the edges of mountains with rain and mist aplenty. Revered by the British for many years and visited by Queen Mary (then a mere Princess), Mussoorei seems to have been recolonised by the Americans and Canadians. There are at least a dozen in semi permanent residence in the guesthouse where we stayed. With the exception of the owner, who is a German who went to Israel and became a Christian, then came to India, married a Tibetan and is now planning to open a guesthouse and working amongst the Buddhists in Tibet for the next five years. Activists certainly live bizarre lives...


The twisted, windy road up the mountain. Just pretend you don't have an irrational fear of heights and embrace the vertigo...

Most of the residents are studying Hindi at one of the many language schools in the area. Although some, like us, are just happy to have found somewhere in summertime India to escape the sun, enjoy the trees and the gorgeous English/German cusine on offer. Never has mashed potato been so greatfully devoured.


Winding through the back paths of Mussoorei, a lesson in how random town planning can be beautiful at every turn. Just as long as you aren't driving.

Mussoorei is also a surprisingly well stocked shopping and communications centre: I had better phone reception than I've had anywhere in the world since leaving the States. And the selection of beautiful handicrafts and woollen goods is awe inspiring, and gives you a warm fuzzy feeling that you're giving something back to exiled Tibetans. I was informed today, though, that a lot of the produce is actually Indian. "It's because we have different faces," one of my Tibettan boys informed me, "People think we're selling the real thing." You have to admire the manipulation of the market economy, really you do.

Back down the mountain we've started conversation classes with the Tibettan boys, who range from the astoundingly proficent to the incredibly shy. There were a few moments of wondering whether we'd be able to cross cultural barriers. We talked a little more about soccer, and music, and then movies. One of the guys gave me a look and then said something in Hindi. "He's asking if you've seen a movie," his mentor explained to me, "He says it's called Narnia." I nod. The guy looks at me with a smile on his face. "Mr. Tummnus", he says.